Hi, my first brew has finished bubbling and hopefully is ready for the second fermentation. On the bottle vs barrel debate, I thought I would put the whole lot in a barrel and then transfer some into a small number of bottles (total ~ 3litres) after a couple of days. My logic was that if I partially filled the barrel more oxygen would be in from the start whereas if I transfer some out after a couple of days the CO2 pressure will have built up sufficiently to avoid air getting in. Any thoughts?
Another thing I was wondering was CO2 injection. I have the equipment for that, but wondered if it would be necessary on the basis of having 4pints in a given evening about 2 times a week. I have brewed Woodforde's Admiral's Reserve. Should I just fit the CO2 valve cap in case? without any bulbs connected, does the CO2 valve cap behave the same as the standard vent cap (i.e. vent excess pressure I presume)?
Very exciting, though time to be patient!
Comments
Hi, I had a similar query, barrel or bottles. The advice I was given was to barrel the ale. Use the CO2 valve, and don't forget a little vaseline around the seal.
I have in the past primed some bottles first, then put the rest into the barrel. This gives a nice contrast, the bottles can be slightly chilled if you wish and it also really cool to crack open your 'own' brew!
I think it's good to follow woodfordes directions as the final results should be pretty good. Once you've had a bit of practise and gained experience then you can do the brew however you want!
I only started last October, but so long as everything is kept clean and basic directions followed you shouldn,t have a problem. Enjoy your Admirals Revenge.
It's best whenever possible to transfer your brew out of the fermenting vessel into where it will ultmately be kept, so if you want to fill a few bottles syphon over to them, and put the rest in a barrel. You then work out how much to prime the bottles and barrel, based on grams per pint. This way you get the minimum amount of air in with the brew as it is transferred. For example, if you put 20 pints in bottles and 20 pints in the keg you only need half the priming sugar you would have used if you had put the full 40 pints into the keg.
Whether you think you will need to inject CO2 or not, it is best to fit the CO2 cap and valve from the start, it has the same safety feature and will vent excess pressure if needed, there does not need to be a CO2 bulb fitted. Then if you do find you want to inject any additional CO2 later you don't have to remove the lid and swap them over - this would release any pressure built up and let air into the barrel which you do not want to do. By fitting it from the start it will minimise the amount of air in the keg
Hi, it's true that syphoning can be a little awkward. Just one of those jobs where it'd be useful to have an extra pair of hands. I do believe that syphoning is better than draining off your brew via the tap though. If you're careful, and keep the tube end only an inch below the surface of the beer you're syphoning, it's quite possible to drain it of with minimal disturbance of the deposits in the bottom of the fermenter. It's just a slow and tedious job.
One thing which might well help is to stir a sachet of beer finings into the brew once the primary fermentation has finished, and leave it a couple of days before syphoning. This tends to coagulate everything into a sticky goo in the bottom of the fermenter and makes it far less prone to disturbance, so long as you don't acctually stick the syphon tube into the yeast layer.
Sounds like syphoning is worth the practice then. Hopefully my first brew will give me a bit more confidence in this as I should think in future I can do it better that I did that time. A couple of weeks until I find out. It's amazing to see the barrel sitting there with all that beer inside visible through the translucent barrel material. Let's hope it tastes as good as it looks in the barrel.