Homebrew newbie help

johngarty

Hi. I bought a while ago a kit (fermenter bin and PET bottles, IPA) from yourselves for my son who showed zero interest in it.
Fast forward a year or so I decided to try myself at having a go.
I completed the instructions and sat back and waited a few days, nowt from the airlock. So I thought my yeast could be off and purchased and sprinkled some more in, still nowt. Luckily I did do a pre ferment Hydro check so decided to do that again, and it has gone from 1050 to 1020 in a week, so is working. Problem is that the test tube i drew is full of stringy floaty lumps which dont look good. (probably due to over yeasting?).
So I have bought some Harris Beer Brite finings to add but having read various articles apparently this can impede secondary and carbination in bottles??
So should I add this? If so just pour over or stir in?
Also the kit (St Peters IPA) says leave primary for 5/6 days but t'internet seems to say longer?
Have just bought a secondary vessel from here via ebay as intend to get stuck in properly once I know what i a doing.
Any advice from the experts out there greatly appreciated.

HBO_Staff

Welcome johngarty, the good news is that this is not uncommon and should be perfectly fine, whilst it is best to use the lid on your vessel as it ferments and if you have an airlock pop it in the hole and part fill with water - this just helps to keep any contaminants out although it does not need to be airtight at this stage. There can be a number of reasons why the airlock will not bubble, take a look at this link if of any interest:

https://homebrewonline.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/903/airlock-not-bubbling#latest

You have done exactly the right thing by taking readings and the hydrometer reading is a big help - this shows it has fermented most of the way, but just has a few more points to drop before bottling. You are looking for a reading of around 1.014 or below, this usually takes about 6 days at room temperature although it can be a bit longer which is no bad thing. Once the reading drops to around this you can then go ahead and bottle.

If when you bottle using the tap there are large bits in the brew (it will be cloudy still at this stage and is nothing to worry about), then you could use a fining such as Beer Brite to help the large particles to settle to the bottom before bottling. One thing which you already mentioned is that using a fining will remove suspended yeast and clear the brew, this can mean that there is less suspended yeast in the bottle to work with the priming sugar/carbonation drops, so carbonation time can be increased. usually only use a fining if needed to remove larger particles - don't worry if it is just cloudy as this will settle to the base of the bottles.

Let us know how you get on....

johngarty

Hi and thanks for the speedy reply.
Yes I did use the lid and water filled airlock but got no action.
So i think i might add the finings on this one due to over yeasting then, should I add the solution just poured over the top or do I need to stir/agitate everything?

Thanks again.

HBO_Staff

If there are large lumps floating in the liquid then use a fining, depending which one you use just follow the directions on the pack, and it will settle the suspended particles to the bottom before you fill your bottles. You may find that when you prime each bottle with drops/sugar, it could take a while to carbonate - keep them warm for at least a couple of weeks to help them get the secondary fermentation going, the bottles should then begin to firm up as they pressurise, once clear and left to condition they will be ready to drink, give them a good few weeks minimum for the best flavour as it improves with time

WCG

Probably not recommended, but if my brew's still got 'yeast monsters' ( the lumps of yeast which still keep floating to the surface ) or bits of hop leaf which refuse to settle, I tend to bottle mine through a standard plastic kitchen funnel fitted with either purpose-made filter paper ( 24cm Harris vin-papers ) or - at a push - ordinary coffee percolator filters, which do the job by removing all the floaters without filtering out the suspended yeast.